We deal with a large variety of automotive issues at the shop. Some issues such as tire patches are simple and daily occurrences. Sometimes we take on classic cars that need regular repair and overhaul. Sometimes we take on "headaches" that other shops just could not figure out. This is a story about one of those times. 

We recently had in a 10 year old Chevrolet Colorado, 4 cylinder and four-wheel drive. It had been throwing lean condition codes, this means that the engine was getting too much unregulated air into the engine. As a result, the engine computer was forcing the injectors to stay open longer causing gas milage to plummet. Upon looking under the hood, it appeared to have had the "throw a part at it and see if fixes it kind of look". After looking at the scan data, the computer indeed displayed to us it was lean, the mass air flow sensor was reading lower than expected. This is likely due to a component failing causing air not seen by the mass air flow sensor to enter the engine. The air/fuel sensor (oxygen sensor) sees the excess after combustion and then the computer adds more fuel to the engine until it sees a proper mixture at the oxygen sensor in the exhaust. 

So how do we find air entering the engine? We check obvious components such as intake tubes and hoses for cracks and holes. If nothing is obvious, then it is best to hook up a smoke machine and fill the intake with smoke. Smoke machines are primarily used for fuel and evaporative emission leaks; however, they can be used for situations such as these. Expert technicians know that tools can always be used for more than 1 situation. The smoke machine showed us the leak. Within minutes, the air intake resonator box was smoking out of the seam.  The resonator box appeared in physical good health; however, it clearly was not. 

Unfortunately, the air resonator box was not available anymore as GM had discontinued it and it is not a commonly sold part by a junkyard. Our only choice of repair was to physically seal the box with adhesive and a plastic weld compound. After resealing the box, engine fuel trims came back to normal. The check engine light issue was resolved. The truck could then pass inspection and gas mileage was restored to normal. 

We wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving holiday! May it be filled with love, smiles and great times!

- The Ferrels

Happy November everyone! If you are planning on taking a thanksgiving trip or have family coming in, then I have a couple quick checks for everyone to do before hitting the road. Nothing ruins a holiday more than car trouble on the trip.
1st: Check your air pressures, if that TPMS light is on, stop down and get those tires and sensors checked. Driving on low air pressures can lead to tire failure. 
2nd: Check your headlights, tail lights and brake lights. Getting pulled over and ticketed by an officer is another way to ruin a holiday trip. Light checks only take a couple minutes and we do them as a courtesy. 
3rd: Check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make sure the oil level is between the hash marks on the dipstick. Coolant tanks/reservoirs have hot and cold lines. If the engine is cold the level should be on the cold line. If the engine has been running, then the level should be on the hot level. 
Lastly, if you have a clunking or brake noise, then get it checked out. Procrastinating a repair can result in a more expensive repair if a component fails on the road. Even for the simplicity of having peace of mind, it is best to know what is going on versus praying and hoping for the best.

If you need any help on a trip check, don't hesitate to call and ask for help.

- Clinton Ferrel 

Welcome to Autumn and cooler weather. I have started to receive more calls than normal pertaining to TPMS lights coming on. Air pressure in tires decrease in cold temperature and expand in hot temperature. This is a normal law of physics. If your light has come on, just give us a call and we can check the TPMS sensors and the air pressures on a quick stop down. I do not charge for checking air pressures. It is important though to maintain proper air pressure for tire wear and gas milage. Typically, we have to add some air pressures when temperatures get around 40 to 50 degrees and also when it gets colder into the 20s for winter.  So if your TPMS light comes on, give me a call and/or stop down. 

​- Clint 

Happy Autumn everyone!

I hope everyone has had a fun, exciting and adventurous summer! We have been busy here at the shop, regularly being booked out by about a week. Currently we are booking only several days out as people get adjusted to school schedules. 

I have hired an additional mechanic to help with our workload and prepare for when Matt goes out on paternity leave. It may seem hard to believe but Matt has been with us at the garage almost 6 years now. We are excited for him to expand his family and also expand our family here at the garage. 

As we approach the colder weather, you may find your tire pressure light coming on. This is normal as air pressures shrink with cold weather. Simply give us a call or come down and we can put air in your tires. We do not charge for the air pressure check. Resetting TPMS lights can be as simple as a reset through the instrument cluster. Other resets may require some driving or a tool for resetting. We can handle that and discuss it as every car has a different method for the tpms reset procedure. 

Also, it will be time to check your heater. Make sure hot air is coming out of the ducts. Coolant level should be checked as well as its condition to make sure it can handle winter temperatures and not freeze. 

Please reach out to us if you have questions about maintenance for this upcoming winter. Let our expertise help answer your questions! 

Summer greetings everyone! I would like to take this moment to post about a couple changes and upcoming expectations. 

First and most importantly, THE GARAGE WILL BE CLOSED THE WEEK OF AUGUST 11TH TO THE 15TH. We are taking that week for vacation and family time. I have not had any extended time off and been away from the shop since February of 2024. I have been working from home even when I have been sick answering phone calls, questions and helping diagnose vehicles over the phone.  If you have been into the shop lately, then you may have heard how sick I have been, strep 3 times and currently dealing with shingles. I need some time away. 

Secondly, Keith has left the shop. I have hired Corey as his replacement. She has 11 years of experience in the automotive field. She is friendly, outgoing and knowledgeable. I think she is a fantastic addition to our team. 

Lastly, if you are planning on a road trip, please notify us of a trip check a week in advance. We are currently about a week out on appointments. I would like everyone to feel safe when making a trip in their car. 

Enjoy the summer and stay cool!  - Clint Ferrel

Now that we are into May, the summer heat is starting to arrive. With the rise in temperatures, many people are turning their air conditioning units on. Unfortunately, not everyone's A/C is working. I wanted to take this time to write about the common repairs that we have been seeing. As well as what to expect for A/C cost.

Due to our climate here in the northeast corrosion is our biggest problem. The most common cause for A/C failure that we see is the condenser assembly. The condenser is mounted behind the front bumper cover but in front of radiator assembly. It takes the brunt of abuse from road salt, rocks, bugs and everything that the road can throw. As a result of its positioning, condensers fail due to corrosion and damage from road debris. To replace A/C condenser assemblies usually requires that the front bumper cover be removed and sometimes the radiator depending on how it is mounted. Just the replacement cost for the condenser typically is 2 hours of labor ($340) and the part averages around $250. That brings up a total of around $590 plus the recharge service which is around $350 with added dye. Before you can blink, with sales tax the bill is around that $1,000 mark. 

If you are wondering if A/C compressors fail, I can tell you that they do. If the internals of the compressor are failing, the compressor makes awful metal on metal grinding type sounds. If the compressor clutch/hub that engages the compressor has failed, then it usually powers up but will not make noise. In the past we would replace the clutch assembly on the compressor. Unfortunately, that is not as common with newer style a/c compressor designs. A/C compressors are typically sold as remanufactured and complete units. Compressor pricing varies wildly depending upon how easy it is to access it. I personally have had to lower sub frames, remove radiator and fan assemblies in order to get A/C compressors replaced. Part pricing varies from $400 to $750. Labor can be as little as 1 hour ($170) to almost 3 hours ($510). Companies that sell A/C compressors require that the filtration unit also be replaced in order for a warranty to be valid. Sometimes the filtration unit is a separate piece that is part of a line assembly. Most of the time, it is built into the A/C condenser. So in order to get a warranty on the A/C compressor, the condenser is also replaced. Fixing the A/C for a compressor failure has shot up to almost $2,000 depending on the type of vehicle. It can be expensive to be cool.

A/C lines do corrode out around hold downs and retainers. Evaporators do fail; however, in our part of the country we do not see them fail frequently. In southern and western parts of the USA they fail more frequently as A/C is used longer and more frequently. Evaporator replacement usually requires removal of the dash. Dash removals traditionally turn into 8 hour long projects. 

If your windows work, then the old time "460" air conditioning maybe a route to consider. Back in the day, it was all 4 windows down going 60 MPH. It was enough of a breeze and airflow to make being in the car tolerable. 

If you have questions about your A/C system, then give us a call. A/C repairs do typically require several hours, so plan on leaving your vehicle for the day. 

Are you planning to travel for Easter this season? If you are looking forward to a road trip to see family, then there are few things to get checked quickly before going on your trip. With 6,000 mile and 6 month service intervals, some of these items may not have been checked recently. What are these things to get checked?
- Tire pressure and tread depth. If they have not been checked since last Fall, then likely the tire pressure has dropped and should be filled to its factory spec.
- Engine oil level and condition. If it is an older car, then it may be consuming some engine oil and need a top off. Running an engine low on engine oil is a recipe for disaster. If it has been 6 months since being changed, it may likely be do for it.
- Wiper blades. Being able to see clearly is important.
- Coolant level.
- Get any clunks or braking noise diagnosed. There will be no fun on a road trip that ends up on the side of the road due to a mechanical failure. 
Plan ahead, a lot of parts are held in warehouses and require being shipped overnight. If you plan on getting the vehicle checked out ahead of your trip and it may need repairs, then please make an appointment several days in advance. 

Enjoy the warm weather and spring travels.  

The 

Posting about vehicle batteries because this winter we have been answering 2 very frequently asked questions. First question is: How long do batteries last? The second question is how much and why is it so expensive? 

To set the stage for these questions we must understand that the 2024/2025 winter has been longer and colder than the previous handful of years.  Batteries fail in extreme cold and extreme heat. Because of the prolonged colder temperatures, we have seen an increase in battery failures. AAA has even stated that they have seen a dramatic surge in the number of battery related calls and services this past winter.

Onto answering the first question of "how long do batteries last?" In our climate they typically last 4 to 6 years. Why the range? Climate, size of battery, how many computers(modules) are in the car and driving habits. Someone who drives just around town and only maybe an hour a day will have a battery that is discharging and not staying fully charged. This type of driver will have a battery replacement sooner than someone who drives an hour commute to and from every day. That longer commute will have a battery that is getting more time being charged by the alternator and will likely last longer. Another important note is that some vehicles have by design a smaller battery to fit a confined space. Other vehicles may have a larger battery in a more open space such as the trunk. Why does size matter? It matters because a smaller battery usually does not have the same storing capacity as a larger one. The storing capacity is important due to modern cars having 20 to 30 computers(modules) all drawing from the battery. So ultimately driving habits and factory battery size play a role in that longevity. 

The second question, "Why are batteries so expensive?" There are several factors in the cost of batteries. The first factor is type of battery, the second factor is size, and the third factor is battery location. There are 3 types of batteries, regular acid, AGM (glass mat) and lithium ion. Regular acid batteries are the most inexpensive and have long been the standard until the past several years. The new standard is an AGM (glass mat) battery. An AGM battery retails from $275 to $310 currently in comparison to an acid battery of about $200. (These prices are pulled from Interstate, a long-time operating vehicle battery manufacturer). The AGM battery has better electrical storage capacity to handle all the computers(modules) in modern cars that are demanding more power out of the battery. More features in a car equates to more electrical demand. If you're wondering why not use an acid battery? Well, indeed you can put an acid battery in a car that came with an AGM; however, it will failure very prematurely. The last type of battery, Lithium Ion, that we used to see in just Hybrid vehicles are in high end gasoline cars as well. I recently had to quote a battery for a 6-year-old BMW M series. The battery was only available from BMW and cost a whopping $2500 for just the battery. It would then also require an hour to install due to its placement and reprogramming to tell the ECM and BCM that the battery was replaced. The total cost on that battery with sales tax was reaching $3,000. (When asking BMW about the cost of it, their response was that the car cost $100k new so a $3000 repair bill should not be an issue for the owner). 

Unfortunately, the cost of batteries is only going to go up. Some batteries are made in the USA. Most are made in Mexico and other countries. With upcoming tariffs, it is very likely to see an increase in battery prices from 10% to 25% depending upon where the battery is coming from. 

My final bit on this post is about installation cost for batteries. Installation prices will vary from .4 of an hour to a full hour of time. Some batteries are easy to install under the hood and can be done in 20 minutes. Other batteries can require much more time. For example, many Ford vehicles have the battery under the hood, but buried halfway under the windshield. In order to replace those batteries, the air box, intake tubing and multiple shields need to be removed in order to do the job. We do not get to decide where a manufacturer and engineer decide to place batteries.

If you have questions about batteries, please call us and reach out. We test batteries as a courtesy as well if you want yours tested. I hope you found this post informative!